Vocabulary list



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VOCABULARY LIST

DRAMA 416
Revised Fall 2002

* Words marked are NOT required for BA’s. They are required for MFA Costume Designers.

@ Words marked are NOT IN THE TEXT. Definitions will be given in class.

(Word) = this indicates the word given in text. The next word is the one I wish you to use. See Chapter 4 below for example.



Chapter 3 - GREEK

Cretan 1900 - 1450 BCE Archaic 750 - 480 BCE

Mycenaean (Archaean) 1600 - 1100 BCE Classic 480 – 336 BCE

Dark Ages 1100 - 750 BCE Hellenistic 336 - 146 BCE

* Boss - circular decoration, relief
Codpiece - male genital covering
Diadem - crescent shape - Headband or crown p. 83
* Fibula - “safety pin”
Fillet - simple metal band worn around the head
Chiton - tunic. Fold on one side, open at other, fastened at shoulder
Chlamys - Men’s short cape, rectangular drape
Girdle - belt or sash
Himation - lg. drape
Doric Chiton - a style of tunic
Ionic Chiton - a style of tunic with “sleeves”
Peplos - early form of Doric Chiton and/or Overfold of a Chiton (tunic)
* Phrygian Bonnet (p. 83) - distinctive hat of Phrygian people
Tyrian purple - expensive dye - made from shellfish, see p. 60, 100

Chapter 4 - ETRURIA AND ROME

Etruscan 750 - 500 BC

Roman Republic 509 - 27 BC

Roman Empire 27 BC - 476 AD

Breeches (Braccae) (Feminalia) - close fitting, knee length pants
*@ (Cothurnus) Buskin P. 104 - high boot, open toe
Casula - poncho like cape (descendant is chasuble) no CF opening
Clavi - trim on tunics
Cucullus - hood with small shoulder cape
(Dalmatica) Dalmatic - tunic [short] with wide sleeves, wider in body than a tunic
Paenula - cape with hood, open CF (serious outerwear)
Palla - women’s drape
Pallium - Himation, large men’s drape
Palludamentum - military cape
Stola - women’s tunic (Ionic)
* Tebenna - Etruscan drape
Toga - large Roman drape worn only by male citizens
Tunic (Colobrum) - you know this!
Chapter 5 - THE BYZANTINE EMPIRE

Constantinople Byzantium 330 - 1095 (1453)

Liturgy - public rites and services

@* Alb - liturgical garment, gown with sleeves (bottom layer)


* Chasuble p. 133 - derived from Casula. Vestment worn to celebrate mass
@* Cope - semi circular cape Vestigal hood, not worn to celebrate mass
Hose - fitted leg covering
@ Mitre - Bishop’s hat with two tails
* Lorum p. 135 - long, narrow “scarf” - last descendant of toga (and p. 131)
Palludamentum - long cape, for noblemen only
(Segments) Segementae - round decorations
Tablion - rectangular Decorations


Chapter 6 - WESTERN EUROPE THROUGH THE 11TH CENTURY

Dark Ages 476 - 800 AD Romanesque 1000 - 1150

Carolinian 750 - 1000 1st Crusade 1095 - 96

Bayeux - name of the tapestry 1066 - 1068?


Chain Mail - rings of steel - made into shirts, hoods, gloves, etc.
(Cyrtel) Kirtle - woman’s gown or dress (new name for tunics for women)
Head Clothes (Couvrechief)
Hosa - leg warmers
Mantle - simple rectangle worn like a cape
Trousers - relatively fitted
Wimple P. 172 - cloth draped around the throat and pinned at the top of the Head.

Commonly also includes a Head veil or scarf.

Scot - a wimple: “The cloth which covers the chin [or neck/throat] of all women at the

start of the 14th C. How much of a woman’s headdress was really not clear”

As a neck scarf, can tuck into neck

Chapter 7 - 12TH AND 13TH CENTURY
Early Gothic 1150 - 1325 Medieval

Crusades (mid 12th - early 14th) Middle Ages

Arms - family emblems on garments
* Bliaut - long gown (tunic) with fitted torso, low waistline, full skirts & sleeves, worn

by men and women


Circlet - simple, metal band, worn around head
Crespine (crespinette) 1st net for hair; becomes metal box or frame
Coif - “baby bonnet”
Cote - gown with dolman sleeve, bloused over belt. F = floor length, M = ankle
Cyclas - sleeveless gown, a lot like a surcote P. 176
Gardcorps - overgown with long cape-like hanging sleeves
Gorget (see P. 172 and p. 206) - fabric worn over neck by women
Gown (*gunna) long tunic worn by women
* Hauberk - chain mail shirt
Heraldic Device - family emblems on shields and banners
Surcote - garment worn over a cote, usually sleeveless

can be seamed or not on side seams



Chapter 8 - 14th CENTURY
Mid Gothic 1325 - 1425

Armor - metal plate

Armscye - arm hole

@ Bastarde Houppelande - knee length - [short] version of houppeland

Bells (folly bells) - decorative bells

* Caul - delicate metal net worn on hair

Chaperon - hat, developed from hood with liripipe=turban hat, padded rolls, with

Narrow scarf-like wrap

* Cotehardie - fitted torso, M & F, tight smooth fit in shoulder, waist & hip

Dagging - decorative cut edges

Decolletage - low necked

Hose - stockings (ties or buttons on to pourpoint)

Houppelande - men’s full bodied gown, not fitted thru torso, open CF (concealed)

Houppelande - women’s - high waist, same as men’s

Liripipe - tail on hood

Livery - matched uniforms worn by servants

* Organ pipe pleats - rounded, fixed pleats

Particolored - 2 or more colors: halves or quarters

Points - laces (ties) which attach to garments

* Poulaines (Crackowes) - long pointed toed shoes

Pourpoint - under garment - hose to attach to it. Fitted short jacket, has sleeves

Sideless Gown - full skirt, narrow torso, sleeveless, low neck

Tippets - streamers from elbow

Chapter 9 - EARLY TO MID 15TH CENTURY, 1400 - 1459
High or Late, Gothic - 1425 - 1485 in Northern Europe Early Italian Renaissance
Bagpipe Sleeve (Poky) P. 215

Bowl cut - men’s hair style

Cotehardie - gown with fitted torso, M & W, can be short, can be large sleeved or small

sleeved, can have chest padding

@ Hennin - truncated cone or steeple covered with veil, complete covering of hair

@* Mitten Cuffs - cuff which covers knuckles (for women)

* Pattens (galoshes) - wooden clogs for feet

Reticulated Headdress - characterized by use of heavy net of gold or silver

with jewels or beads. Many different styles.




Chapter 10 - LATER 15TH CENTURY 1460 - 1499

Tudor 1485 - 1556 Renaissance c. 1450 - 1620

Bases - organ pipe pleated skirt

Bonnet - beret style hat with a brim

Doublet - waist length garment for men. Fitted, can have variety of necklines, no “skirt”, sleeved

@ French Hood P. 260, fig. 10 - 12 - Headdress with a round or curved frame

Funnel Sleeves - fitted at armscye, wide at wrist, turned back to form cuff and

display undersleeve

Gowns - unbelted, usually w/lapels, open CF, wide sleeves

+ new meaning: gowns = “coats” not “dresses”

Jerkin - Garment for men - sleeveless, fitted upper body, can have skirt or peplum, often low necked

(Kennel) - Gable Headdress (English Hood) also see Chapter 11 - stiff headdress w/veil

and pointed frame

Pourpoint - has sleeves, standing band neckline, “skirts” very short

Slashing/slashes (puffs and slashes) p. 241 - cutting slits in fabric & pulling out under-

garment or lining

* Verdugados - Hooped skirt of Spanish origin
Chapter 11 - EARLY TO MIDDLE 16TH CENTURY 1500 - 1556
Tudor 1485 - 1556 Rise of Protestantism/Luther 1517

Henry VIII 1507 - 47 The Reformation

Edward VI 1547 - 53

Mary I 1553 - 58

Elizabeth I 1558 - 1603
(Aglets) Aiglet - decorative ties

Bodies - women’s stiff under garment (ancestor of corset) for upper torso

Cartridge pleats - pleats shaped like a cartridge

* Chemise - under garment (shirt) women

Doublet - fitted shoulder to waist, variety of sleeves

Farthingale: Spanish or cone - underpinning which supports skirt

@ Duckbill Shoes p. 282 - low shoes with broad toes

* Lappets - streamers on women’s headdresses

@ Orders - lg necklaces (men’s) symbols of office

Panes - strips of stiff fabric

* Partlet - fabric which fills in the neck of bodice

Peplum - flared skirt-like panels attached to waist of garment. It covers the hip

Stockings - come to over the knee

Trunk hose/Upper hose/Upper Stocks - knee length “pants”

Lower hose/Nether Hose/Nether Stocks - stockings
Chapter 12 LATER 16TH CENTURY 1560 - 1599
Elizabethan 1556 - 1603 (or 1620) James 1603 - 1625

Jacobian 1603 - 1625 Charles I 1625 - 1649

Bombast - stuffing

* Busk - stiff CF panel of bodice

Canions - (Upper Stockes) - fitted pants worn with trunk hose

* Chopines (patten) - type of clog fastened to foot by leather strap

(Drum) Cartwheel Farthingale - cartwheel shape underpinning/skirt support

* Falling Band - collar lying on shoulders (at first a collar which supports a ruff)

* Medici Collar (p. 359) - standing collar - comes from decolletage

Lower Hose - stockings

Peasecod Belly - padded belly on Doublet

Plunderhose (Plunderhosen) - very full breeches, usually paned

* Pickadils - tabs on shoulders or at waist (castellated)

Ruffs - white, starched, pleated (in a figure 8 pattern) collar and cuffs

Trunk Hose/Breeches - short, crotch to mid thigh, puffy pants, also called

Mellon hose or pumpkin hose

* Underpropers - frame which holds up collars and ruffs

Venetians - knee length pants, full, pleated over hips, narrower at knee



Chapter 13 EARLY TO MIDDLE 17TH CENTURY 1600 - 1659
Jacobian 1600 - 1625 Cavalier 1620 - 1650

Baroque Commonwealth 1649 - 1660

James I 1603 - 1625 Restoration 1660

Charles I 1625 - 1649 Louis XIII 1610 - 1643

Chas II 1660 - 1685 Louis XIV 1643 - 1715

30 Years War 1618 - 1648


Baldrick - plain or ornamented belt, diagonal shoulder to hip

@ Bolster see P. 349 - bum rolls (support under skirt)

* Boothose - legging with large cuff which lays over cuff of boot

Cavaliers - supporters of King Charles I = fashionable

* Clocks - decoration on stockings

Falling Bands - collars which lie on shoulders

Periwigs/perique - full bottom wigs, shoulder length

Petticoat Breeches (also see Chaps. 14). Breeches with extremely wide legs, decorated with ribbon loops

Ribbon Loops - loops of ribbon

Roundheads - conservative, Protestants (Puritans). Dressed more plainly than Cavaliers

(Shoe Roses) Rosettes - ribbon puffs - decorations on shoes

Stomacher - contrasting, stiff front bodice piece

@* Van Dyck Beard - small pointed goatee

Whisk/*Golillas p. 343 - collar with rounded back and straight fronts p. 343



Chapter 14 LATER 17TH CENTURY 1660 - 1699
Restoration 1660 - 1714 Wm. & Mary 1689 - 1702

Charles II 1660 - 1685 Anne 1702 - 1714

Age of Reason
Breeches - fasten below knee, men’s trousers

* Busk - large flat stick, CF panel of bodice

* Cannons - leg flounces, ruffles worn below knee

* Cassocks - long sleeved (vest) coat, original outer coat of soldiers

knee length, slightly flared

Coat - opens CF in body, variety of sleeve lengths

(Commode) Fontage - ladies headdress

Corset - stiff, close fitting undergarment, shapes women’s torso

Cravat - long, narrow neck scarf (men)

@ Mantua - loose gown, unboned bodice, floor length overskirt

@ Patches - blk fabric beauty spots

Petticoat Breeches (Rhinegrave Breeches) - voluminous legged pants (looks like a skirt)

Steinkirk p. 374 - style of cravat

Tricorne - a hat, cocked in 3 places




Chapter 15 - EARLY TO MIDDLE 18TH CENTURY 1700 - 1759
Regency 1715 - 1730 (France) George I 1714 - 1727

Age of Enlightenment George II 1727 - 1760

Rococo George III 1760 - 1820

Georgian
@ Chinoiserie - in a Chinese style

* Engageantes - lace sleeve ruffles

* Eschelle - graduated bows, CF of bodice

Fichu - neck scarf - light weight, for women

Frock Coat - plain wool, sm collar, no pleats, an outer garment

Greatcoat (redingote) - double collar, an overcoat

Hoops p. 406 - bell-shaped

Jabot - ruffle attached to shirt front

Paniers - side supports for skirts

* Sacque - dress, flows front-and back

@* Solitaire see p. 404 - black ribbon from bag wig - ties in front with sm bow

Stock - high wrapped neck band

Waistcoat/vest - sleeveless

* Watteau Gown (*Robe a la Français) - flowing back, fitted front

@ Watteau Pleats - double box pleats


Chapter 16 LATER 18TH CENTURY 1760 - 1799
1789 - French Revolution George III 1760 - 1820

Directoire 1795 - 1799

Romanticism

Neo Classicism


Bicorne - 2 “cornered” hat, felt, can fold flat

George “Beau” Brummel 1796-1816 - advocated cleanliness, starch, conservative

colors, well tailored, meticulous dressing

* Calash - hooped, collapsible hood

* Caraco - Jacket, double ruffle peplum at hip

Fobs p. 426 - ribbon with ornament (metal) attached to watches

Incroyables - French young dandies or fashion radicals, high turned down collars,

very wide lapels = careless wrinkled effect, very large neckcloths, can cover

chin - Hair = dog ears. Exaggerated styles.

Macaronies - English fashion radicals, exaggerated styles

Merveilleuses - French fashion radicals, exaggerated styles - female equivalent of

Incroyables

Mob Cap - frilled under cap, variety of sizes and shapes

Pantaloons - ankle length, straight leg, tubular trousers

* Pelisse - cloak with fur trim, full sleeves

Polonaise - dress, gathered up skirts in three places

* Redingote - coat or coat/dress with lapel and collar. An overcoat

Sans Culottes - lower class men, wore loose ankle length trousers. Culottes = knee

Britches
Chapter 17 - EARLY 19TH CENTURY 1800 - 1849

Empire 1800 - 1820 Romanticism

Victorian Age begins 1837 George IV 1820 - 1830

Napoleon 1799 - 1815 William IV 1830 - 1837

Victoria 1837 - 1901

* Bertha - large shaped collar or neckscarf

* Betsies - simulated ruff

George “Beau” Brummel 1796-1816 - advocated cleanliness, starch, conservative colors,

well tailored, meticulous dressing

Bustle - underpinning, supports back of dress at rear

* Chignon - knot of hair, twist worn low

Frock Coat - knee length, straight front edges

Gaiters - fitted cloth or leather garment for lower leg, under knee to top of foot

Garrick Coat - caped, collared overcoat

* Hessian Boot - heart shaped top with tassel

Incroyables - French young dandies or fashion radicals, high turned down collars, very wide lapels = careless wrinkled effect, very large neckcloths, can cover chin - Hair = dog ears. Exaggerated styles

Leg O’Mutton Sleeve - full at top, narrow at wrist

* Jockey Boot - contrasting cuff on top

Merveilleuses - French fashion radicals, exaggerated styles - female equivalent of Incroyables

Mourning p. 481 - clothes worn while in mourning. Also, the period of time of doing so.

Also, exhibition of grief for the death of a person

* Reticule - small tubular or draw string purse

Sans Culottes - lower class men, wore loose ankle length trousers. Culottes = knee breeches

Spats - short gaiter, covers upper part of foot to ankle

* Spencer - short jacket, no tails

Trousers p. 459 - long pants, ankle length or longer

Top Hat - high crown, narrow brim

* Wellington Boot - high over knee, cutaway in back of knee



Chapter 18 LATE 19TH CENTURY 1850 - 1899
Second Empire (France) Victorian (until 1901)

Pre Raphaelite Victoria 1837 - 1901


* Basque - flared extension of bodice, skirt-like peplum

Bloomers - baggy trousers - from Amelia Bloomer. Ankle length or shorter.

Boater - flat crowned, stiff brim straw hat

* Bolero - short jacket, rounded front hem

Bowler/Derby - hard, round crown, narrow brim hat

(Cages) Hoops p. 515 - see tournures

* Chesterfield - SB fly front overcoat, velvet upper collar

@ Crinoline Fabric - stiff braid, fabric made of horse hair/ crin=horsehair

Crinoline Petticoat - Petticoat made of this fabric

@ Crinoline Hoop - hooped petticoat, cage like frame of steel & tapes

* Cuirasse Bodice - orig a piece of armor, long fitted bodice 1875 - 80

Cutaway/Morning Coat - curves CF edge, lower part of vest is revealed

* Ditto Suit - 3 piece matching sack suit

Fedora - soft felt hat, casual

Four in Hand - long knotted tie

* Lounge Suit - another name for sack suit

Norfolk Jacket - coat with belt at waist, box pleats, patch pockets

Pagoda Sleeve - funnel sleeve, 3/4 usually w/lingerie inner sleeve

*@ Prince Albert - DB frock coat

Reform Clothing (Reform Dress) - more healthy styles, loose trousers,

knee length skirt

Sack Suit - boxy cut jacket - wide sleeve

* Snood - mesh bag = for hair (caul)

Tail Coat - waist length body, tails in back



(Tournures) Bustle - cage, ruffle or pad: holds skirt out in back = bustle, called tournures in text

Tuxedo (Dinner Jacket) see c. 19 - shawl collar, silk faced sack coats

Waist - blouse

Charles Frederick Worth - major fashion designer 1858 -


Chapter 19 EARLY 20TH CENTURY PP 543 - 565 1900 - 1918

Art Nouveau La Belle Epoque (France) 1895 - 1914

Edwardian 1901 - 1910 (1914) World War I 1914 - 1918

Ballet Russe - ballet company


Fortuny - small irregular pleats - Italian Designer
Hobble Skirt - narrow skirt, prevents normal walk
Homburg - stiff, felt hat, narrow brim
Knickers also see p. 533 - knee length pants
Knickerbockers - c. 1860, longer, more full than knickers
Oxfords - low, laced shoe
Shirtwaist - blouse styled after a man’s shirt, stiff collars, blouses at waist
Trenchcoat - overcoat and self belt, cloth straps at wrist, epaulettes, lg collar









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