San franciso fire department blouse coat united uniform manufacturers



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OCA-RFI/C 2013-01 – Appendix B

ITEM #

DESCRIPTION

MANUFACTURER

MODEL #

1-3



SAN FRANCISO FIRE DEPARTMENT BLOUSE COAT


UNITED UNIFORM MANUFACTURERS


10703SF, 10704SF & 10705SF

SPECIFICATIONS AND ESSENTIAL FEATURES

Enter comments in this column for each item:

CHIEFS’ MATERIAL:

United Uniform Manufacturers’ Model Number 10704SF and 10705SF. Raeford Uniform Fabrics Company’s Style:

• #8250-561, 100% Wool Serge, 16 to 16-½” oz. Wt., OR

• #8247-561, 55% Dacron Polyester, 45% Wool, 14-14 ½” Oz., Black.






OFFICERS’ AND MEMBERS’ MATERIAL:

United Uniform Manufacturers’ Model Number 10703SF. Raeford Uniform Fabrics Company’s style #8250, 100% Wool Serge, 16 to 16-1/2 oz. Weight. Shade No. 8818 (Dark Navy).






DESIGN:

Double breasted, fully lined, partly shaped to figure, with rolling collar and plain seams. It shall extend to 1” below depth of the crotch. The lining shall be of black polyester twill. To access button through the lining, a 10” opening shall be constructed near the bottom of the coat, on left side for access to remove button. Color fast and treated to resist perspiration.

The front shall be made of fusible canvas using coat construction and employing standard practices used in a coat construction. There shall be a button stay of silesia in the front. Edges on the coat shall be plain with no stitching. The coat shall have shoulder pads and arm shields.





POCKETS:

Outside pockets shall consist of one (1) breast pocket on left side and two lower side pockets. The outside breast pocket shall be horizontal (not slanting) and shall be 5” wide and 5-1/4" deep. The dimensions of the lower side pockets shall be as follows: the width of the welt shall be 1-3/16” on all sizes.

The length of the pocket opening welt shall be 6-1/2”.

Depth of pocket shall measure approximately 7-7/8”

There shall also be two (2) inside breast pockets reinforced with self-material.

All pockets shall be lined with black poly-sil.






BADGE HOLDER:

Jacket must have tunnel-type badge holder, finished 1” wide and 2-3/8” long, made of two (2) thickness of jacket material. Badge holder to be equipped with (2) black metal eyelets placed 1-1/4" apart center to center. Center of top eyelet to be 5/8” from top of badge holder. Bottom of the badge holder to be centered ½” above the left pocket.






LAPELS:

Peak of lapels must measure approximately 3-1/2” in width along a horizontal line at collar. “V” of lapels, where they cross, must be approximately 6” from the neck at the tie top.






BUTTONS:

There must be three (3) buttons of regulation 36 ligne San Francisco Fire Department pattern on each side of the coat. Buttons must be spaced 4” apart horizontally, and 3-1/2” to 4” apart vertically, depending on the length of the coat. Bottom buttons must be on line with the center of the welt to the lower outside pockets.

(a) The above coat, when of black fabric, shall be fitted with gilt plated metal

buttons having crossed trumpets specifying rank embossed on the buttons.

(b) The above coat, when of blue fabric, shall be fitted with nickel plated crown domed

buttons having a replica of a steamer fire pumper embossed on the buttons and the letters

“S.F.”embossed above the steamer fire pumper and the letters “F.D.” embossed below the

steamer fire pumper.






SLEEVES:

On black coats, the sleeves are to come unfinished or open so that stripes may be added later at the time of fitting.

On navy coats, the sleeves are to be finished and shall have one (1) ½” inch wide black lustrous mohair braid stripe 2” above the lower edge of each sleeve and that braid shall extend halfway around each sleeve and set into the seam at both sides.





ARM SHIELDS:

To be one piece, piped and made of the same fabric as the jacket.






SHOULDER PADS:

The shoulder and pads shall conform to Type 1, Class 1 and the sleeve heads shall conform to Type IV.






LABEL:

The right inside breast pocket shall be labeled indicating the name of the supplier. Also in the garment should be a sewn label giving cleaning instructions, size and fabric. The label must also have the following: “This garment is guaranteed to meet or exceed the specifications for the San Francisco Fire Department.”






FINISHING:

All loose threads shall be removed. Each Jacket shall be pressed and shaped properly.






COAT SIZING:

Coats shall be made available in every chest size from 34 to 44 and in even chest sizes only for sizes 46-56. Coats shall be made available in sleeve lengths XSS, Short, Regular, Long and XL.









ITEM #

DESCRIPTION

MANUFACTURER

MODEL #


4 & 5



SAN FRANCISCO FIRE DEPARTMENT CHIEF’S TROUSERS--BLACK



UNITED UNIFORM MANUFACTURERS


SF10004 & WSF10004

SPECIFICATIONS AND ESSENTIAL FEATURES

FABRIC:

Raeford 8250-561. 16-16 1/2 OZ/LINEAR YARD (60" WIDTH) 100% WOOL SERGE TWO PLY WARP AND FILLING WITH A BREAKING STRENGTH OF 115 LBS IN THE WARP AND 90 LBS IN THE FILLING. COLOR: BLACK.






DESIGN:

The male trouser shall be manufactured from a men's uniform trouser pattern. The women’s trouser shall be manufactured from a women’s uniform slack pattern. The trouser styling shall incorporate a plain front and straight leg bottoms. The trouser will have two straight side pockets, two hip pockets.






POCKETING:

The pocketing shall be 70% Polyester / 30% Cotton, 2.9 oz. per square yard (60" width) with a minimum 78 X 64 count. Pocketing must have a durable press finish and the color of the pocketing must be black.






POCKET DESIGN:

The two side pockets will have a minimum opening of 6 1/2" and a minimum depth of 5 3/4" measured from the bottom of the pocket opening. Side pockets shall have triangle bartacks at top and bottom of pocket openings. Pockets shall be constructed using the stitch, turn, and topstitch method. Pocket facings shall be made of the basic fabric and measure a minimum of 1 1/2" from the bottom of the pocket opening.


The two hip pockets shall have a minimum opening of 6" and a minimum depth of 7 1/2" measured from the bottom of the pocket opening. Hip pockets shall be constructed using the double welt method and the welts shall be finished with topstitching (lack of topstitching on shall be cause for rejection). The corners of the hip pockets shall have triangle bartacks for reinforcing strength.




WAISTBAND:

The trouser will be made with the FLEXTRACK® waistband system, which is designed to provide the wearer with a more comfortable and better fitting trouser. The waistband shall be constructed using the "closed method" and shall measure 2" wide when finished. The top of the waistband is to be made of the same fabric and color as the pocketing material and must be attached to the trouser with a zigzag stitch. The waistband must contain BAN-ROL to prevent roll over and have three-strand snugtex to keep shirts tucked in. The waistband closure shall be accomplished with a crushproof hook and eye. The hook and eye shall be reinforced with stays made of non-woven fabric that are anchored by the topstitching for the fly facing and curtain. This topstitching must be to the top of the waistband. The waistband shall be set on and closed using a lockstitch (use of a chain stitch is unacceptable) to stitch in the band seam through the outer fabric and the waistband curtain. The waistband must be topstitched 1/16” below the waistband seam for added strength.






FLY:

Trouser shall have a metal memory lock zipper. There shall be a French Fly tab closure on the inside of the right fly. The tab shall be double ply made of the basic cloth. The right fly shall be lined with the same fabric as the waistband curtain and pocketing. The fly lining shall be sewn to the left fly below the zipper in a neat and durable manner. A button shall be located on the left fly corresponding with the French Fly tab to provide a clean and comfortable closure. There shall be a firm straight bartack at the bottom of the fly going through the zipper tape. The crotch shall be lined in front.






BELT LOOPS:

There shall be a minimum of five (5) belt loops on waist sizes 28, 29, 30 and a minimum of seven (7) 3/4" wide interlined belt loops on all sizes over 30. All loops (except for the back center loop) must be sewn into the bottom of the waistband ("dropped" belt loops are cause for rejection) and the top of the belt loops shall be caught into the waistband curtain seam with a rocap machine. The bottom of the center back loop shall be tacked to the trouser and the top of the loop tacked to the outside of the waistband. There shall be sufficient opening to receive a 1-5/8” belt.






CREASES:

The leg creases, front and back shall have a silicone bead put in by using the Lintrak process.






STITCHING, PRESSING & FINISHING:

Trouser must be stitched with matching thread and all stitching to show must be 10-11 stitches per inch. Trouser must be neatly pressed on Hothead Presses and properly shaped. Outseams and inseams must be pressed open. Trouser must be cleaned and finished to eliminate loose threads.






LABELS:

Trouser must have a care label permanently affixed that also indicates the size. This label will also indicate, “This garment is guaranteed to meet or exceed the specifications for the San Francisco Fire Department”. A paper ticket showing the size, fabric content, cut number, and WPL number must be on the outside of the waistband. Garment must be made in the United States of America.






STOCK SIZES:

Trouser must be available in the following stock sizes:



MEN:

• REGULAR RISE: 28 - 54 (EVEN ONLY OVER 38)

• SHORT RISE: 28 - 40 (EVEN ONLY)

Inseams shall be a minimum of 37” unfinished.



WOMEN:

WOMEN’S SIZES 6 THROUGH 24


SPECIAL SIZING: Available upon request.







ITEM #

DESCRIPTION

MANUFACTURER

MODEL #


6 & 7



SAN FRANCISCO FIRE DEPARTMENT OFFICERS & MEMBERS TROUSER-DARK NAVY



UNITED UNIFORM MANUFACTUERERS


SF10002 & WSF10002

SPECIFICATIONS AND ESSENTIAL FEATURES

FABRIC:

Raeford 8250-8818. 16-16 1/2 OZ/LINEAR YARD (60" WIDTH) 100% WOOL SERGE TWO PLY WARP AND FILLING WITH A BREAKING STRENGTH OF 115 LBS IN THE WARP AND 90 LBS IN THE FILLING. COLOR: DARK NAVY BLUE.






DESIGN:

The male trouser shall be manufactured from a men's uniform trouser pattern. The women’s trouser shall be manufactured from a women’s uniform slack pattern. The trouser styling shall incorporate a plain front and straight leg bottoms. The trouser will have two straight side pockets, two hip pockets.






POCKETING:

The pocketing shall be 70% Polyester / 30% Cotton, 2.9 oz. per square yard (60" width) with a minimum 78 X 64 count. Pocketing must have a durable press finish and the color of the pocketing must be black.






POCKET DESIGN:

The two side pockets will have a minimum opening of 6 1/2" and a minimum depth of 5 3/4" measured from the bottom of the pocket opening. Side pockets shall have triangle bartacks at top and bottom of pocket openings. Pockets shall be constructed using the stitch, turn, and topstitch method. Pocket facings shall be made of the basic fabric and measure a minimum of 1 1/2" from the bottom of the pocket opening.

The two hip pockets shall have a minimum opening of 6" and a minimum depth of 7 1/2" measured from the bottom of the pocket opening. Hip pockets shall be constructed using the double welt method and the welts shall be finished with topstitching (lack of topstitching on welts shall be cause for rejection). The corners of the hip pockets shall have triangle bartacks for reinforcing strength.





WAISTBAND:

The waistband shall be constructed using the "closed method" and shall measure 2" wide when finished. The top of the waistband is to be made of the same fabric and color as the pocketing material and must be attached to the trouser with a zigzag stitch. The waistband must contain BAN-ROL to prevent roll over and have three-strand snugtex to keep shirts tucked in. The waistband closure shall be accomplished with a crushproof hook and eye. The hook and eye shall be reinforced with stays made of non-woven fabric that are anchored by the topstitching for the fly facing and curtain. This topstitching must be to the top of the waistband. The waistband shall be set on and closed using a lockstitch (use of a chainstitch is unacceptable) to stitch in the band seam through the outer fabric and the waistband curtain. The waistband must be topstitched 1/16" below the waistband seam for added strength.






FLY: Trouser shall have a metal memory lock zipper. There shall be a French Fly tab closure on the inside of the right fly. The tab shall be double ply made of the basic cloth. The right fly shall be lined with the same fabric as the waistband curtain and pocketing. The fly lining shall be sewn to the left fly below the zipper in a neat and durable manner. A button shall be located on the left fly corresponding with the French Fly tab to provide a clean and comfortable closure. There shall be a firm straight bartack at the bottom of the fly going through the zipper tape. The crotch shall be lined in front.




BELT LOOPS:

There shall be a minimum of five (5) belt loops on waist sizes 28, 29, 30 and a minimum of seven (7) 3/4" wide interlined belt loops on all sizes over 30. All loops (except for the back center loop) must be sewn into the bottom of the waistband ("dropped" belt loops are cause for rejection) and the top of the belt loops shall be caught into the waistband curtain seam with a rocap machine. The bottom of the center back loop shall be tacked to the trouser and the top of the loop tacked to the outside of the waistband.






CREASES:

The leg creases, front and back shall have a silicone bead put in by using the Lintrak process.






STITCHING, PRESSING & FINISHING:

Trouser must be stitched with matching thread and all stitching to show must be 10-11 stitches per inch. Trouser must be neatly pressed on Hothead Presses and properly shaped. Outseams and inseams must be pressed open. Trouser must be cleaned and finished to eliminate loose threads.






LABELS:

Trouser must have a care label permanently affixed that also indicates the size. A paper ticket showing the size, fabric content, cut number, and WPL number must be on the outside of the waistband. Garment must be made in the United States of America.







STOCK SIZES:

Trouser must be available in the following stock sizes:



MEN:

• REGULAR RISE: 28 - 54 (EVEN ONLY OVER 38)

• SHORT RISE: 28 – 40 (EVEN ONLY)
Inseams shall be a minimum of 37” unfinished.
WOMEN:

WOMEN’S SIZES 6 THROUGH 24


SPECIAL SIZING: Available upon request.







ITEM #

DESCRIPTION

MANUFACTURER

MODEL #


8-10


UNIFORM CAP SPECIFICATIONS

SAN FRANCISCO FIRE OFFICER



KEYSTONE UNIFORM CAP


R13-SF14, R13-SF15

& R13-SF16

SPECIFICATIONS AND ESSENTIAL FEATURES

MATERIAL:

100% Black Wool serge with 1-1/2” Black Mohair Band (R13-SF14) or Velvet Band (R13-SF15 and R13-SF16).






MEASUREMENTS:

Size 7-1/8 - 7-1/4. Crown from front to back 10-3/4"; from side to side 10-1/4"; the front height 2-1/2" and the sides 1-3/4". Measurements of other sizes to be in proportion.







CAP COVERING:

Will include top, 3-piece projection, side band, tip lining (gold acetate), sweatshield (.008 gauge clear vinyl) and a pocket for individual name card. Seams will be lockstitched, 10 to 12 stitches to the inch.






FRAME, VISOR, FRONT STAYER, BAND:

The construction shall be a one piece molded visor, front band stayer of lid black. Emblem slots and assembly holes to be performed, the inner band 2-1/8” extruded "poly" perforated with 3/8" holes throughout, with pre-punched button holes and attached with brass rivets. Visor shape AS.






GROMMET:

Will be 5/16" proxilyn covered wire attached to front stayer with (3) brass rivets.







SWEATBAND:

27 oz. anti-migratory non-toxic cloth backed vinyl, sewn on the outside of inner band and turned for cushioned effect to provide maximum comfort. Top edge to be finished and size label attached. Each cap to effectively cover (2) head sizes. In 6 sizes. XS, S, M, L, XL, and XXL.






EYELETS:

Each cap provided with a front badge eyelet and (2) ventilating eyelets on each side.






FRONT STRAP & BUTTONS:

Standard 1/2" double sliding gold metallic front strap with gold Cross Bugle buttons specific to Rank. R13-SF16 style to include gold metallic strap around rear half of cap band, also.






WASHING:

Hand wash with mild soap and warm water. Let drip dry. Do not dry clean. Do not put in automatic dryer.










ITEM #

DESCRIPTION

MANUFACTURER

MODEL #


11


UNIFORM CAP SPECIFICATIONS

SAN FRANCISCO FIRE FIGHTERS



KEYSTONE UNIFORM CAP


R13-SF17

SPECIFICATIONS AND ESSENTIAL FEATURES

MATERIAL:

Raeford Navy Blue Serge (8250-8818) on top, sides and band.






MEASUREMENTS:

Size 7-1/8 - 7-1/4. Crown from front to back 10-3/4"; from side to side 10-1/4"; the front height 2-1/2" and the sides 1-3/4". Measurements of other sizes to be in proportion.






CAP COVERING:

Will include top, 3-piece projection, side band, tip lining (Gold acetate), sweat shield (.008 gauge clear vinyl) and a pocket for individual name card. Seams will be lock stitched, 10 to 12 stitches to the inch.






FRAME, VISOR, FRONT STAYER, BAND:

The construction shall be a one piece molded visor, front band stayer of lid black. Emblem slots and assembly holes to be performed, the inner band 2-1/8” extruded "poly" perforated with 3/8" holes throughout, with pre-punched button holes and attached with brass rivets. Visor shape AS.






GROMMET:

Will be 5/16" proxilyn covered wire attached to front stayer with (3) brass rivets.







SWEATBAND:

27 oz. anti-migratory non-toxic cloth backed vinyl, sewn on the outside of inner band and turned for cushioned effect to provide maximum comfort. Top edge to be finished and size label attached. Each cap to effectively cover (2) head sizes. In 6 sizes. XS, S, M, L, XL, and XXL.






EYELETS:

Each cap provided with a front badge eyelet and (2) ventilating eyelets on each side.






FRONT STRAP & BUTTONS:

Standard 1/2" double sliding plastic black front strap and silver San Francisco Fire Department Steamer Pumper design buttons.






WASHING:

Hand wash with mild soap and warm water. Let drip dry. Do not dry clean. Do not put in automatic dryer.









ITEM #

DESCRIPTION

MANUFACTURER

MODEL #


12


SAN FRANCISCO FIRE DEPARTMENT MEN’S LONG SLEEVE WOOL SHIRT SPECIFICATIONS


UNITED UNIFORM MANUFACTURERS


11004SF

SPECIFICATIONS AND ESSENTIAL FEATURES

FABRIC:

100% wool






WEIGHT:

14.0 – 14.5 oz. / linear yard






COLOR:

Navy, Raeford Mills style 460. Color 96 Midnite Blue.






STYLE:

To be United Uniform Manufacturers’ 11004SF. Dress style, top center placket front, full cut tapered fit, convertible collar, long sleeves with square cuffs and dress shirttail. Two plain breast pockets with topstitched scalloped flaps. Exterior badge holder with metal eyelets. Matching inside yoke and banana band of high luster PolyTwill. Yoke to be ¼” double needle topstitched. Work wear industrial style shirt construction is unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection.






COLLAR:

Convertible collar shall be one piece. Collar points to measure 3-1/4" long with ultrasonically fused-in or sewn-in Mylar stays. Collar to have woven interlining of Stabilized Mello-Press. Stays to be 2 1/2” long, 3/8” minimum width, and to be fused to under side of collar interlining. Stays applied directly to collar material itself unacceptable. Collar topstitched with 1/4" double needle stitching. Collar material itself (top or underside) shall have no fusing to Mylar stays or collar interlining.






FRONT:

Each front shall have a facing approximately 3” in width. The left front shall have a top center placket 1-3/4" wide with two double rows of stitches 7/8" apart. Stitching on top center is not to be visible on the turn-back facing. The shirt will have 7 buttons and buttonholes on the front; spacing between each will be 3-¾" except the spacing between the neck button and the first button on the front, which will be approximately 2 1/2". Top center placket to have woven interlining of Stabilized Mello-Press. Non-woven interlining unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection. The fronts shall be joined to the yoke so that both raw edges of the yoke are turned under, with the front sandwiched between, and then all three are stitched down with a ¼” double needle stitch. Safety stitch joining unacceptable.






BADGE REINFORCEMENT:

Exterior holder to finish 1-1/8" wide by 2-1/4" deep with two metal eyelets positioned vertically 1-1/4" apart with bottom eyelet centered 1-1/2" above left pocket flap.






POCKETS:

Two plain breast patch pockets with mitred corners. Pocket to measure 5 5/8" wide, 6" deep. Left breast pocket to have 1- 1/2" pencil stitch. Breast pockets are set to shirtfront with ¼” double needle stitching. Each pocket to have hook Velcro, 3/4" long by ½" wide, positioned on both edges of pocket to correspond with outer scalloped flap points as specified. Velcro to be stitched all sides and to be sewn through pocket and shirt for added reinforcement. Each pocket shall have a well-sewn button centered on the pocket to align with the buttonhole in the scalloped flaps.






FLAPS:

One piece deep scalloped design to measure 5 7/8" across and 2-3/4" in depth at center point, 2-1/4" at sides. Secured to shirtfront approximately 3/8” above pocket. Left flap to have invisible pencil opening 1-1/2" to correspond precisely with pencil slot of pocket. Flaps to be ¼ " double needle topstitched. Flaps to have woven interlining of Stabilized Mello-Press. Creased and edge stitched pocket flap construction unacceptable. Under side of the flap to have looped Velcro 3/4" long by 1/2" wide stitched all sides, positioned on outer points of both pocket flaps to secure with corresponding Velcro strips on shirt pocket. Each flap shall have a well-sewn buttonhole to align with the sewn button on the pocket.






SLEEVES:

To be long sleeves with approximate 4 1/2" sleeve vent. Sleeve shall have a one-piece, elbow reinforcement and vent facing. Elbow reinforcement shall be set to sleeve with ¼” double needle stitching and shall extend into the sleeve-closing seam.






CUFFS:

Two piece ½-inch hemmed cuff with ¼” double needle topstitching. Square cuffs to measure 3" in depth. Cuffs to have one button and corresponding buttonhole centered on the cuff with one button and buttonholes in center of the facing. Cuff to have woven interlining of Stabilized Mello-Press.






BUTTONS:

First grade 22-ligne black melamine at the neck closure. First grade 24-ligne white melamine buttons to be sewn on each pocket, cuff and sleeve facing. First grade 30-ligne white melamine buttons to be sewn on the shirtfront.






SEWING:

All parts are ¼” double needle topstitched, including yoke, elbow reinforcement and top center placket. Side close felling seams and sleeve inserting are also ¼” double needle. The button front facing shall be edge stitched.






THREAD:

All sewing threads to be color fast polyester wrap to match.






INTERLININGS:

Collar shall be interlined with Stabilized Mello-Press. Pocket flaps, cuffs and top center to be interlined with Stabilized Mello-Press.






SIZE MARKING:

Body size and sleeve length shall be marked on the inside collar.






LABEL REQUIREMENT:

The label should state the following: This garment is guaranteed to meet or exceed the specifications for the San Francisco Fire Department. We guarantee this shirt to be free of defect and error or we will replace it free of charge.






STOCK SIZES:

Shirt sizes must be available in the following sizes: Neck sizes: Small (14–14-1/2), Medium (15–15-1/2), Large (16–16-1/2), XL (17–17-1/2), XXL (18–18-1/2, 3XL (19–20) and 4XL (21–22).

Sleeve lengths: 30-31; 32-33; 34-35 and 36-37.

SPECIAL SIZES: Available upon request





CONSTRUCTION:

Collar, cuffs and flaps are made with conventional construction. Top ply, bottom ply and interlining are first stitched together, then turned right side out and finally topstitched.








ITEM #

DESCRIPTION

MANUFACTURER

MODEL #


13


SAN FRANCISCO FIRE DEPARTMENT

MEN’S SHORT SLEEVE WOOL SHIRT SPECIFICATIONS



UNITED UNIFORM MANUFACTURERS


11000SF

SPECIFICATIONS AND ESSENTIAL FEATURES

FABRIC:

100% Wool Tropical






WEIGHT:

10.0 – 10.5 oz. / linear yard






COLOR:

Navy, Raeford Mills style 8321. Color: 610 Midnite Blue.






STYLE:

To be United Uniform Manufacturers’ Model 11000SF. Dress style, top center placket front, full cut tapered fit, convertible collar, short sleeves and dress shirttail. Two plain breast pockets with topstitched scalloped flaps. Exterior badge holder with metal eyelets. Matching inside yoke and banana band of high luster PolyTwill. Yoke to be ¼” double needle topstitched. Work wear industrial style shirt construction is unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection.






COLLAR:

Convertible collar shall be one piece. Collar points to measure 3-1/4" long with ultrasonically fused-in or sewn-in Mylar stays. Collar to have woven interlining of Stabilized Mello-Press. Stays to be 2 1/2” long, 3/8” minimum width, and to be fused to under side of collar interlining. Stays applied directly to collar material itself unacceptable. Collar topstitched with 1/4" double needle stitching. Collar material itself (top or underside) shall have no fusing to Mylar stays or collar interlining.






FRONT:

Each front shall have a facing approximately 3” in width. The left front shall have a top center placket 1-3/4" wide with two double rows of stitches 7/8" apart. Stitching on top center is not to be visible on the turn-back facing. The shirt will have 7 buttons and buttonholes on the front; spacing between each will be 3-¾" except the spacing between the neck button and the first button on the front, which will be approximately 2 1/2". Top center placket to have woven interlining of Stabilized Mello-Press. Non-woven interlining unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection. The fronts shall be joined to the yoke so that both raw edges of the yoke are turned under, with the front sandwiched between, and then all three are stitched down with a ¼” double needle stitch. Safety stitch joining unacceptable.






BADGE REINFORCEMENT:

Exterior holder to finish 1-1/8" wide by 2-1/4" deep with two metal eyelets positioned vertically 1-1/4" apart with bottom eyelet centered 1-1/2" above left pocket flap.






POCKETS:

Two plain breast patch pockets with mitred corners. Pocket to measure 5 5/8" wide, 6" deep. Left breast pocket to have 1- 1/2" pencil stitch. Breast pockets are set to shirtfront with ¼” double needle stitching. Each pocket to have hook Velcro, 3/4" long by ½" wide, positioned on both edges of pocket to correspond with outer scalloped flap points as specified. Velcro to be stitched all sides and to be sewn through pocket and shirt for added reinforcement. Each pocket shall have a well-sewn button centered on the pocket to align with the buttonhole in the scalloped flaps.






FLAPS:

One piece deep scalloped design to measure 5 7/8" across and 2-3/4" in depth at center point, 2-1/4" at sides. Secured to shirtfront approximately 3/8” above pocket. Left flap to have invisible pencil opening 1-1/2" to correspond precisely with pencil slot of pocket. Flaps to be ¼ " double needle topstitched. Flaps to have woven interlining of Stabilized Mello-Press. Creased and edge stitched pocket flap construction unacceptable. Under side of the flap to have looped Velcro 3/4" long by 1/2" wide stitched all sides, positioned on outer points of both pocket flaps to secure with corresponding Velcro strips on shirt pocket. Each flap shall have a well-sewn buttonhole to align with the sewn button on the pocket.






SLEEVES:

Sleeve are to be straight and whole and to have a ¾” hem and to finish at a minimum of 9 ½” long from shoulder seam.






BUTTONS:

First grade 22-ligne black melamine at the neck closure. First grade 24-ligne white melamine buttons to be sewn on each pocket. First grade 30-ligne white melamine buttons to be sewn on the shirtfront.






SEWING:

All parts are ¼” double needle topstitched, including yoke and top center placket. Side close felling seams and sleeve inserting are also ¼” double needle. The button front facing shall be edge stitched.






THREAD:

All sewing threads to be color fast polyester wrap to match.






INTERLININGS:

Collar shall be interlined with Stabilized Mello-Press. Pocket flaps and top center to be interlined with Stabilized Mello-Press.






SIZE MARKING:

Body size shall be marked on garment.






LABEL REQUIREMENT:

The label should state the following: This garment is guaranteed to meet or exceed the specifications of the San Francisco Fire Department. We guarantee this shirt to be free of defect and error or we will replace it free of charge.






STOCK SIZES:

Shirts must be available in the following sizes: Small through 4XL






CONSTRUCTION:

Collar and flaps are made with conventional construction. Top ply, bottom ply and interlining are first stitched together, then turned right side out and finally topstitched.





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