IMPLEMENTS AND MATERIALS
Assorted makeup brushes (for eye shadow, eyeliner, lip color, concealer, blush, and powder; flat or slanted brush for brows or eyeliner), astringent, cheek colors, cleansers, concealers, cotton pads or puffs, cotton swabs, disposable lip brushes, eye shadows, eyelash curler, eyeliner pencils, face powders, foundations, headband or hair clip, lip colors, lip liners, makeup cape, mascara, mascara wands, moisturizers, pencil sharpener, shadow applicators, small makeup palette, spatulas, sponge wedges, tissues, toner for drier skin, towels, and draping sheets, if desired
Complete standard pre-service procedure. If any of the following steps have already been completed in the pre-service procedure, they do not need to be repeated.
1. Drape the client.
2. Cleanse the face and remove the cleanser.
3. Apply astringent lotion or toner.
4. Apply moisturizer for the client’s skin type.
5. Groom the eyebrows, if needed.
6. Apply foundation. Test the color by blending the foundation on the client’s jawline. When you are satisfied with your choice, place a small amount of the foundation in your palm or on the back of your hand and, using the tips of your fingers or a sponge, apply sparingly and evenly over the entire face and around the neckline.
7. Blend foundation. Starting at the center of the face, blend with outward and downward motions. Blend near the hairline and remove excess foundation with a cosmetic sponge or pledget.
8. Apply concealer. Select the appropriate type and color of concealer and then scrape a small amount onto a spatula. Using a brush or fingertips, apply the concealer lightly where needed (under the eyes, over blemishes, to cover redness). Blend in with a patting motion. If a powder foundation is being used, the concealer must be applied before the foundation.
9. Apply powder. Apply the powder with a sanitary puff or cosmetic sponge, pressing it over the face and shaking off the excess with a puff or powder brush. A moistened cosmetic sponge may be pressed over the finished makeup to give the face a matte look.
10. Apply eye color. Select a complementary color in a medium tone and then, beginning at the lash line or crease, apply lightly and blend outward with a brush or disposable applicator.
11. Apply eyeliner. Select eyeliner pencil, pressed liner, or liquid eyeliner in a color to harmonize with the mascara you will be applying. Pull the eyelid taut as the client looks down, and draw a very fine line along the entire lid. You may apply to the top lash line and/or bottom lash line. If eyeliner pencil is used, the point should be fine and care should be taken to avoid injury or discomfort. Be sure to trim the pencil before each use.
12. Apply eyebrow color. Brush the brows in place. With light feathery strokes, apply color with a fine-pointed pencil or fill in with a brush and shadow. Excess color can be removed with a cotton-tipped swab.
13. Apply mascara. Apply to the top and underside of the upper lashes with careful, gentle strokes until the desired effect is achieved. Use a fresh brush or applicator to separate the lashes. Mascara may be applied to lower lashes if desired, but the effect should be subtle.
14. Apply cheek color. Have the client smile to raise the cheeks, and then apply liquid or cream cheek color with a sanitized applicator, blending outward and upward toward the temples. Powder cheek color is brushed on after powder is applied. Liquid or cream cheek color is applied before powder.
15. Apply lip color. Use a freshly sharpened pencil to line the lips, beginning at the outer corner of the upper lip and working toward the middle. Repeat on the opposite side. Connect the center peaks using rounded strokes, following the natural line of the lip (unless you are using corrective techniques). Outline the lower lip from the outer corners in, and then apply liner on the lips, staying within the outline. For sanitary reasons, lip color must not be applied directly from the container unless it belongs to the client. Use a spatula to remove the lip color from the container, then take it from the spatula with a lip brush. Rest your ring finger on the client’s chin to steady your hand. Ask the client to relax her lips and part them slightly. Brush on the lip color. Then ask the client to smile slightly so that you can smooth the lip color into any small crevices. Blot the lips with tissue to remove excess product and set the lip color. Powdering is not recommended, as a moist look is more desirable for the lips.
©2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning